Friday, 3 March 2017

Postcard from Clairview, Central Queensland

After traveling for hours through dry cattle country on Australia's national highway, suddenly encountering an uncanny light blue sea at Clairview makes a big impression. The township of Clairview is a string of houses along a beach without even a petrol station or a shop.  However, there is a caravan park where people can and should stop for a day and experience the late afternoon vista from the beer garden on the beach.

Beach at Clairview
Thirteen islands hover on the far horizon (click to enlarge)
The bright colour of the sea is from clay suspended in the water.  Huge tides slosh back and forth in the enormous and famously muddy Broad Sound which lies just to the south.  Mixing of these muddy waters with the clean blue Coral Sea creates the curious sea colour at Clairview.

Colour of the water at high tide in a mangrove creek
At low tide, sand flats stretch toward the horizon and hold the promise of interesting creatures to anyone brave enough to seek the low water mark. Large tides have a reputation for catching people unaware and sweeping them away. With that in mind, I thought I would take a look.

Stony shoals extent for hundreds of metres from tiny creek mouths
The seabed is like a wet desert. In places it has sand so fine that it flows around your feet like mud. Elsewhere, hard sand ripples form troughs that hold soupy liquid clay. Surprisingly most sandflat creatures like sand dollars and moon snails are not smothered by the sediment despite being immersed in it. Small sand crabs attack you in their crazy style of self-defense. Dugong feeding scars crisscross the sparse beds of seagrass. Sometimes there are turtle body prints in the mud.

Dugong feeding trails
Marine turtle body print
Portunus pelagicus
Baby Sand Crab on the defensive
The tide does not rush in so badly and anyone who can walk would be safe although it does gurgle as it flows over the rippled sand.

On the calmest of days the incoming tide stirs the sediments into milk
Near the beach is a sculptured layer of rock. All around the region, this concrete-like layer of rock also appears in the beds of streams both freshwater and marine. Vast areas of land in Central and Southern Queensland apparently have this rocky hardpan lurking just below the soil surface. It is an ignored geological feature as it is neither mineral or soil. The sole scientific paper I could find struggled to explain how and why the rock formed. It appears to be a relict from a past climate and is composed of aluminium and silicate compounds of similar chemistry to clay.  It is solid, contains embedded stones and is neither laterite or silcrete.

hardpan with encrusting oysters
Relict hardpan sculptured by the sea

Clairview Creek, Central Queensland
Hardpan studded with stones in the bed of the mangrove creek
The presence of this sheet of rock just below the surface makes the bush on the coastal plain struggle to survive as the shallow soils flip from very wet to very dry with the seasons. It is perhaps one of the reasons why Central Queensland has so little agriculture and so few people.  At Clairview the rock forms reefs that are encrusted with oysters. The hollowed and twisted stone shapes are strangely photogenic.

Definitely wear shoes, as every stone has a forest of oysters. The oysters grow vertically on the stone surface and colonies are like a shag pile carpet. Perhaps this orientation frustrates the oyster drills that feed on these colonies as moving over the colony that presents only sharp edges must be hard.

A small variety of oyster that stands on end.
Scattered along the coast and sometimes well out on the sand flats are small stands of mangroves. Some open stands of large trees resemble parkland.

Flock Pigeon Island lies just off-shore

Larger mangroves provide some handy shade
Clairview is a place of sand and sky and a milky sea. It offers a picturesque desolation and serenity.

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